‘I was excited by this idea of taking culture to the streets and changing the whole way of life, using culture as a way of making trouble’.
Ever the inspirational anarchist, Malcolm McLaren viewed life and perspective on a completely different level to others. It was his sheer enthusiasm and fearlessness that propelled the likes of The Sex Pistols into their glimmering limelight all them years ago. Many a fashion maverick, punk lover of music and the late 1970’s London underground youth culture, stopped in their tracks last week to find that beloved Malcolm McLaren dubbed as the ‘Godfather’ of punk, had sadly passed at the age of 64. I myself, was really sorrowful at hearing the news, I found him and Viv in the good old days to be such a fantastic and vivacious pair of talents, totally irreplaceable if you ask me.
Most folks have heard about Malcolm, mostly for his important role manufacturing and marketing the raw rebellious attitudes of Punk, which he channeled through one of the most iconic bands in the late 20th century, obviously it is hard to even mention Malc’s name without The Sex Pistols. They were like a few maybe too many writhing peas trapped in a pod, full on clashing, confrontations and an unashamed sensibility of revolt. Yep, that was them all over.
Malcolm’s prominence within music history has ultimately overshadowed his indeed pivotal and creative role within fashion. Going back quite a few years now, to be precise it was 1965 when both Viv and Malcolm first met. Of Malcolm Vivienne once said ‘Malcolm’s a one-off. He was fascinating and mad, and it was though I was a coin and he showed me the other side’.
You could say that the pair got on like a house on fire, Vivienne was young, naïve and a conformist but with ambitious ideas and a penchant for creativity. Malcolm was somewhat opposed to traditionalist views and very self-aware with a political agenda. The culmination of these traits provided the perfect catalyst, for their radical yet ultimately lucrative business in the form of a fashion boutique that was opened at 430 King’s Road.
In 1971, Malcolm and Viv opened ‘LET IT ROCK’ which initially payed homage to old school Rock & Roll and Teddy boys, selling records, fifties memorabilia and original clothing. Reviving this iconic style, the pair wanted to steer away from the bohemia and current hippie-esque movement in the early seventies. Looking back it was possibly one of the most smartest things to do, they were literally establishing anti-fashion that was going against everything culture and fashion wise at the time.
Vivienne stated ‘What changed our lives forever was when Malcolm had the idea to sell rock 'n roll records to trendy customers’.
Over the next 9 years, they consecutively closed and re-opened four more boutiques Too Fast To Live Too Young To Die (1972), SEX (1974), Seditionaries(1977) and Worlds End (1980), which still gladly retains its likelihood and spot today at 430 King’s Road.
Throughout this decade Viv and Malcolm experimented with customization and the D.I.Y ethos of self styling, Vivienne inevitably had the creative flair to chop and change clothing and Malcolm I suppose was a sort of fashion consultant. Once Viv’s creations had that provoking element that Malcolm loved, that was it, the sewing and designing fleeted and collections really developed from there.
‘Even though it was the 70s, we found old stocks of clothes that had never been worn from the 50s and took them apart. I started to teach myself how to make clothes from that kind of formula’.
By far my favorite shop out of them all was ‘SEX’, it was shocking, confrontational and extremely provoking towards society and the real world. After all it did have gigantic pink lettering above the door spelling out the taboo that literally stared at you in the face. All that leather, PVC, zips in the most un-inconspicuous places and those iconic printed t-shirts emblazoned with naked cowboys and rude slurs that only a radical youth could carry off. Amazing if you ask me…and so pioneering I love all that drama…the hype…everything about SEX was pretty mind-blowing!
Always very self-assured Malcolm admits, ‘The Pistols were like my work of art. They were my canvas’.
However The Sex Pistols weren’t the only band to front and model Vivienne’s creations, in the 1980’s Malcolm put together New Wave band ‘Bow Wow Wow’ to initially promote Vivienne’s new romantic pirate-wear, that consisted of squiggle print blouses, leather strapped slouchy boots and cotton pantaloons. Anabella Lwin fronted the band with her quirky side shaven head, flowing Mohican and braids, which was a great look paired with Viv’s attire. Malcolm also had a brief stylistic stint with The New York Dolls in the early 1970’s, but nothing really fashion major.
This partnership was completely unstoppable and I personally think it was the best creative combined talent that the late 20th century had ever experienced. Not only was Malcolm a great fashion advisor, he was passionate about music and art direction too, he designed and styled all the layouts of the shops even the galleon style sloping floor at Worlds End.
All in all they were really great together, I love looking at photos of them together in the early days, they just have this energy about them, a truly special bond that can be seen through the work life and love life they shared together. I’m getting all deep right now about it… but it’s so true.
Later in his life Malcolm ultimately released some solo music material, listening to the actual songs themselves they aren’t too bad, it’s the ideologies behind the music that is the most interesting focal point. He has this ongoing charisma that you just can’t take away from the guy.
A humorous attempt to music for me would be Malcolm’s ‘Buffalo Girls’ which boasts a great visual to watch and is fantastic documentation of early 80’s hip hop as well as culmination of other music influences/genres that Malcolm was passionate about. The video also features some of Malcolm and Vivienne’s collection worn by the buffalo girls, although I can’t seem to distinguish which collection as they had Nostalgia of Mud, Punkature and Witches all going around the time of 83.
Malcolm was a innovative and unique soul that is really ultimately hard to come by. His legacy will live on, his influence in music will never be forgotten only ever commended and his role within fashion too particularly his collaboration with Vivienne are so ideal that they were and always will be ahead of their time. Dare I say a youth will never look at a safety pin in quite the same way again…to only imagine it through the queens nose.
R.I.P Malcolm X
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