As fashionable palettes appear to be getting ever so more muted…this season the lustful trend for nude tones and monochrome is being morphed with harder edge embellishments to steer away from being atypically feminine.
The most delicates of fabric lace, chiffon, satin, organza, silk and mesh were all seen at Bora Aksu’s stunning SS/10 collection. Colours were kept decidedly next to nude with fresh white, crème, grey and the occasional regal yellow gold. This collection romantically explored lots of layering particularly of contrasting fabrics and sheen, as well as structured separates and fabric cutwork.
Possessing a fantastically feminine and theatrical quality, Aksu’s designs exude a subtle punky attitude with references to see-through mesh blouses; laddered knitwear and cropped leather-look embellished smart biker jackets.
My favourite pieces in this collection without a doubt are the beautifully ornate, heavily embellished, shimmering leggings and tights that come across as mermaid turned savage-esque. Combining fishnets, jersey, lace and sequins Aksu transformed ordinarily looking leg-wear into striking graphic works of art that shimmied their way down the catwalk, enhancing and complimenting the collection perfectly…if you ask me. The addition of these pieces ultimately challenges the aesthetic of this incredibly romantic collection and gives it an edge that strays away from looking too sweet.
Likewise Temperley seem to have jumped on the moody-esque Victoriana bandwagon...which is stunning to say the least. Showcasing auto-shape inspired prints, black chiffon and jersey, cutwork and subtle shades of pale blue, grey, poppy red and vibrant purple, this collection really plays on the stylistics of hard and soft.
Throughout the collection there were noticeable early 1970’s fashion undertones that I detected through the exploration of monochrome, mini and maxi dresses. A nod to Stanley Kubrick’s ‘A Clockwork Orange’ could also be suggested, with models donning strikingly smudged dark eyes, and the occasional eclectic touch of masculine styling with black bow neckties and side propped top hats.
By far my favourite pieces in the show are the button and stud embellished dresses that are so aesthetically pleasing to the eye… and have the most beautifully intricate patterns of wavering lines, diamonds and nostalgic symbols such the anchor and heart. They possess a certain gypsy-esque romantic feel that is kept really chic, with minimal black accessories such as the chiffon flower headband.
Temperley’s collection showcased so many beautiful pieces that have this effortless stylish look about them. Her styling in the show was kept decidedly feminine and modern mixing interesting techniques with hints of colour to provide a really grown up and fun yet elegant collection.
Though traditionally, bright colours are associated with spring & summer, this season it can be noted that designers are taking a new fresh approach to what can actually be classed as summer-wear. With no garish colours in sight…think muted tones of pink, blue, grey and green…pretty much anything that is soft and ethereal. This season you can really ditch the typical sunny brights and opt for a more understated palette that will be sure to make you stand out from the crowd.
